The ‘Sentinels’ of Langhe
The journey begins in Roddi. The most enchanting place is the little square outside the city hall, where the parish of the assumption is located, with its late baroque facade, and the castle built around 1000ad in a dominant position on the Tanaro valley, in the highest part of the hamlet.
The old town, with streets drawing concentric circles, is perched around the 13th century bell tower and the manor. Tall and imposing, it is a fine example of fortified medieval architecture, with a three floor main building and two mighty towers: on one corner the cylindrical main tower stands out tall and slender; on the opposite side stands a smaller and suspended tower. Since 1526, the building had belonged to Gaio Francesco della Mirandola, nephew of the great humanist and philosopher Pico. Then, in 2001 it became a property of the municipality and can now be visited.
Getting back on the road to Alba, it is possible to reach Grinzane Cavour, a town divided into two parts: Gallo, home to many craft and industrial activities, the most famous of which being the production of nougat, and Grinzane, the historical part developed around its prestigious Castle, symbol of the Langa of Barolo. The name of the village pays tribute to the renaissance statesman Camillo Benso, who was mayor here for 17 years, from 1832 to 1849.The castle of Grinzane Cavour, together with that of Serralunga, is one of the finest examples of medieval architecture in Langa. Thanks to the restoration works carried out since 1926, the building is in excellent condition. Imposing and haughty, from the top of the hill, it overlooks the entire hamlet below. Until approximately 1400, it belonged to the Marquises of Busca; then passed to the Marquises of Monferrato, until, in the first half of 1800, it was bought by Michele Cavour, father of Camillo. Finally, the the Alfieri family of Sostegno bought the palace and, in 1932, donated it to the city of Alba, since, at that time, Grinzane was part of the municipal territory of Alba. Today the castle is open and can be visited. It hosts Enoteca Regionale Cavour, the regional wine cellar, a restaurant and an ethnographic museum on rural culture. From Gallo, heading to Barolo, at the first fork take the road to Serralunga, one of the most beautiful centres of the Barolo Langa: one can reach the village by driving along the estates and wine cellars of Fontanafredda, that Emanuele Count of Mirafiori, son of Victor Emanuel II wanted in 1878. By appointment, it is possible to visit the heart of the company: the enchanting royal cellars, which get lost in the bowels of the hill. On the top of the hill stands the castle, a unique example of a defensive building which remains in this area: the three very high towers, in fact, remind us to the need for defence, but had also the function of sighting and communication with the other towers of the Langa. It is characterized by a spartan interior, designed to accommodate armed troops; mysterious niches and hatches open up inside the imposing towers: the castle has underground passages that link it to the farmland and, in some secret way, to other nearby castles. Owned by the state, in 1950 it was the subject of a restoration commissioned by the President of the Republic Luigi Einaudi. From Serralunga, continue to Castiglione Falletto, at the centre of the Barolo wine and food area. The village is dominated by the beautiful and disquieting medieval fortress, characterized by a massive central fortified tower. Castiglione is an ancient hamlet, probably of Roman origins; the castle was built around the year 1000 as a lookout point and later became a military stronghold and a strategic lookout over Langhe and Monferrato; in 1601 it passed to the Savoy and was transformed into a private house. It is one of the most impressive panoramic viewpoints on the low Langa and the majestic castle of Serralunga; it is open only during certain events including the one named “Operazione Città Aperte”. At its feet, in the basement of the City Hall, is the Cantina Comunale, the town winery. From Castiglione head in the direction of Barolo: set in a sort of plateau surrounded by panoramic hills, the village has given its name to the wine. In the village there is the Castle, built in the 10th century, when Langhe were invaded by the incursions of the Saracens; in 1250 it passed to the Falletti, a powerful banking family of Alba, who bought the place with all the land and thrived there until 1864. In their territory, which extended over the surrounding hills up to the castles of Castiglione and Serralunga, was produced the first Barolo thanks to the work of the Marquise, Giulia Colbert Falletti. The history and legends on the ‘King of Wines’ originated just right in this very castle. Tradition has it that here, in the 1800s, 325 wagons (one per day with the exception of the 40 days of Lent) left each one with a carrà (a long and narrow barrel) of wine. The destination was the court of Savoy in Turin, in particular the King Charles Albert, who had reprimanded the Marquise for not having ever offered him any wine to taste. The long convoy blocked the street called via Nizza up to the Royal Palace, arousing a huge stir among the crowd: it was the first truly effective advertisement of the Barolo wine. The castle has undergone many changes over time: from defensive manor to noble residence in the countryside until 1970, the year when it was purchased by the Municipality with a public subscription. The upper floors house the ethnographic museum of Barolo, while in the wine cellars, right where the Marchioness Giulia baptized the first Barolo, is the seat of the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo, the Regional Winery.
Wine Cellars Along the Itinerary
Vietti
, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5, Castiglione Falletto CNFamiglia Anselma
, Loc. Castello della Volta, 3, Barolo CNMauro Sebaste
, Via Garibaldi, 222 bis • Frazione Gallo, Alba CNBric Cenciurio
, wineshop: Via Roma 24; cantina: Via Alba - Barolo 26, Barolo CNSordo Giovanni
, Via Alba-Barolo 175, Castiglione Falletto CNMonchiero
, Via Alba - Monforte, 49, Castiglione Falletto CNGiovanni Rosso
, Via Roddino 10/1, Serralunga d'Alba CNBoroli
, Via Brunella, 4, Castiglione Falletto CNTenuta Cucco
, Via Mazzini 10, Serralunga d’Alba CNGigi Rosso
, Strada Alba-Barolo, 34, Castiglione Falletto CNFontanafredda
, Via Alba 15, Località Fontanafredda, Serralunga d'Alba CNEttore Germano
, Località Cerretta, 1, Serralunga d'Alba CNTerre del Barolo
, Via Alba-Barolo, 8, Castiglione Falletto CNGemma
, Via Alba 11/C, Serralunga d’Alba CNDamilano
, Strada Provinciale Alba-Barolo, 122 - wineshop: Via Roma, 31, Barolo CNCantina Comunale di Castiglione Falletto with kitchen
, Via Cavour 24, Castiglione Falletto CNGabutti di Boasso Franco
, Località Gabutti, 3/A, Serralunga d'Alba CNCagliero
, Via Monforte, 34, Barolo CNSchiavenza
, Via mazzini 4, Serralunga d'Alba CNG.D. Vajra
, Piazza della Vite e del Vino, 1 - Fraz. Vergne, Barolo CNSukula
, Via Meriame 3, Serralunga d’Alba CNFratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno
, Via Crosia 12, Tenuta Cannubi, Barolo CNFrancesco Borgogno
, Via Crosia, 29, Barolo CNEnoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour
, Via Castello, 5, Grinzane Cavour CNOlivero Mario
, Via Fontanassa, 18, Roddi CNPalladino
, Piazza Cappellano, 9, Serralunga d'Alba CNL”Astemia
, Via Crosia, 40, Barolo CNGiacomo Borgogno E Figli
, Via Gioberti 1, Barolo CNLuigi Vico/Serralunga Casa Mia
, Via XX Settembre, 13, Serralunga d’Alba CNEnoteca Regionale del Barolo
, P.zza Falletti, 1, Barolo CNViberti Giovanni
, Via delle Viole, 30, Barolo CNLa Biòca
, Via Alba 13/A, Serralunga d'Alba CNBarale Fratelli
, Via Roma, 6, Barolo CNCadia
, Strada Roddi – Verduno, 58, Roddi CNPlaces to Eat Along the Itinerary
RossoBarolo
, Via Roma 16, Barolo CNRistorante Brezza – Hotel Barolo
, Via Lomondo 2, Barolo CNBoroli
, Via Brunella, 4, Castiglione Falletto CNFontanafredda
, Via Alba 15, Località Fontanafredda, Serralunga d'Alba CNCantina Comunale di Castiglione Falletto with kitchen
, Via Cavour 24, Castiglione Falletto CNSchiavenza
, Via mazzini 4, Serralunga d'Alba CNAlessandro Mecca Restaurant at Grinzane Cavour Castle
, Via Castello 5, Grinzane Cavour CNLa Crota – restaurant and guesthouse
, Via Fontana, 7, Roddi CNTota Virginia, hotel and restaurant
, Loc. Baudana 69, Serralunga d’Alba (CN)Massimo Camia
, Strada Provinciale Alba - Barolo 122, La Morra CNAccommodation Along the Itinerary
Mauro Sebaste
, Via Garibaldi, 222 bis • Frazione Gallo, Alba CNRistorante Brezza – Hotel Barolo
, Via Lomondo 2, Barolo CNI grappoli
, Borgata Parafada, 5, Serralunga d'Alba CNBoroli
, Via Brunella, 4, Castiglione Falletto CNFontanafredda
, Via Alba 15, Località Fontanafredda, Serralunga d'Alba CNGabutti di Boasso Franco
, Località Gabutti, 3/A, Serralunga d'Alba CNCagliero
, Via Monforte, 34, Barolo CNCa’ San Ponzio
, Via Rittane, 7, Barolo CNLa Crota – restaurant and guesthouse
, Via Fontana, 7, Roddi CNTota Virginia, hotel and restaurant
, Loc. Baudana 69, Serralunga d’Alba (CN)La Biòca
, Via Alba 13/A, Serralunga d'Alba CNBarale Fratelli
, Via Roma, 6, Barolo CN